Chicago Pinot (and Other Favorites)

Moving Day!

2010-03-26T21:41:00.007-05:00

Just a quick note to inform you that I am moving my host site from Blogger to WordPress. Still not quite sure what that means, but I am told that WordPress allows more flexibility and features to the blog. I hope you follow me to my new home! Here's a quick reminder of everywhere you can find me online.

Chicago Pinot 2.0: Available at chicagopinot.wordpress.com

Facebook: Search for "Douglas Trapasso"

Twitter: Search for "demilove"

YouTube: Search for my new wine videos at "chicagopinot"

and you can still email me at chicagopinot@gmail.com

I hope we meet soon, either online, or in person at one of Chicago fine wine stores or wine events!

It's Time for Open That Bottle Night!

2010-02-27T13:46:00.003-06:00

What's the most romantic holiday occurring every February? As opposed to that Valentine thing, I would make a case for Open That Bottle Night, which restaurants and couples throughout the world celebrate on the last Saturday in February. Created by former Wall Street Journal wine columnists John Brecher and Dorothy J. Gaiter, OTBN is their invitation to create a bond between a memorable wine bottle, and the special people in your life.

John and Dorothy generously agreed to an email interview describing the evolution of OTBN.

How did you come up with the idea for Open That Bottle Night?

We listened to readers. When we began writing our “Tastings” column in 1998, we received the same question over and over again: “I have a cherished bottle of xxx that I received for my wedding (or was left by the father, etc.). When do I open it?” We always said the same thing: Open it this weekend and celebrate the memories that splash out! But finally we realized, wow, we should just all bite the bullet and open those bottles together. We set a date for September 1999 and the response was incredible. It turns out that everybody has a bottle like that!

What are some tips you have for making your OTBN extra special?

Open a bottle that really is special to you in some way, that brings back very special memories, that you might not otherwise ever open. This doesn’t necessarily mean the “best” bottle in your collection or the one that was most highly rated by someone else, but the one that will bring back the warmest, happiest memories.

Have you heard from wine stores and restaurants, regarding if
OTBN has provided any bump in business on that day?

Many restaurants over the years have had special events for OTBN and some – even the great Windows on the World -- waived corkage on that night. We certainly hope it helped business, but we know it made people happy and that’s always good for business.

Can you share some memorable stories from readers about their OTBN (or your own?)

We have always had a soft spot for John Watson. He wrote us the very first year about his special wine and added: “Had we found an occasion last year to open this great ‘gift of the grape,’ my bride of over 50 years could have been present to enjoy this event in person rather than in spirit only.” We kept in touch with Mr. Watson after that and, because of wine, he ended up meeting a woman, Mary, and they ultimately married. They sent us pictures of their wedding, which really touched us.

Have you found that certain regions or specific wines make frequent appearances at OTBN? What are some of the more unexpected wines you have heard have been served?

It depends on the year. During the fat years, there were a lot of cult Cabernets from California and first-growth Bordeaux. Jordan Cabernet has always been big. The biggest surprises to us are the ancient Blue Nuns and similar wines. We mean, gosh, it’s great that people are finally opening these wines, but what were they waiting for? It just goes to show that some wines, whatever they may be, are always too special to open.

Do you think there is something intrinsic about wine that makes it such a catalyst for memories, storytelling, laughter, that I have read in your book are often the best part of an OTBN?

Absolutely. Smells and tastes spark memories in a way few things do. Far too much discussion of wine focuses on vintages, reviews and hints of leather, but what people really love about wine is how very, very personal every bottle is and how it connects us with people, places and good times in a very special way. OTBN is one way to reconnect with those good times.

Michael Bottigliero, who writes an excellent blog called Windy City Wine Guy, described his special wine he will be tasting with his special recipe for Farfalle al Salmone e Piselli (please email me for the recipe!)

"For this I will be opening a bottle of '01 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo "Cicala". Barolo wines come from Piedmont in the Cuneo province, just southwest of Alba. They are made from the Nebbiolo varietal and produce wines which are lighter in color, but higher in acidity and tannin, and full bodied. They typically have essences of earth, roses and tar, along with ripe red fruit flavors. They react well with heavy sauces and both fat and proteins and the acidity matches well with tomato sauce. They were traditionally cellar aged for many years, to mellow the tannins and acidity, but new style producers have been making them a bit more ready to drink upon release, though it still is better that they age. Since the Cicala is an '01 vintage, I feel tonight is a great time to open it! I will be sharing it with my wife and a few candles, while we eat and watch our baby. Sounds like a great Saturday night to me!"

Another blogger you should read is author/poetress Jacquee T, who writes A Romantic's Perspective. Her thoughts should definitely inspire your Open That Bottle Night:

"This is a fabulous celebration because we all have “that bottle” we’d purchased and earmarked for a special occasion. That we’d stashed in a place distinguished from other wines, to be opened “when ....”

We have visions of “when” that precious bottle is to be uncorked. A step up in the career, a new home, a homemade dinner by candlelight. Or we might rely on knowing when “when” arrives when we see it.

Either way we envision the occasion as grand, and quaint. And the wine set aside for it to be delicious, better with age, better with prolonged anticipation.

Yet the genesis behind “that bottle” is the initial purchase.

One of my “that bottle’s” is from a trip to Spain. I love it because I’d purchased it during a magical trip. It could only be uncorked for a special occasion. Without that occasion, the bottle remained in its special place.

“Open That Bottle Night” asserts permission I haven’t given myself to make the wine the occasion.

Given that, I realize the biggest anticipation behind “that bottle” is the people with whom I want to share it. When I do, I will tell them, with a toast, why I invited them."

Please share with me your Open That Bottle Night stories, and I will include them in an upcoming post. And check out the Open That Bottle Night website!

Talking Valentines and Pinot with Anthony Terlato

2010-02-12T16:41:00.007-06:00

Anthony Terlato, the Chairman of Lake Bluff based Terlato Wines International has earned a reputation for quality wines sourced from vineyards throughout the world. Some of the brands he markets include Domaine Chanson from France, Santa Margherita from Italy, Angelo Gaja's wines from Italy, the classic Champagne house Bollanger and the Rhone based Michel Chapoutier. He produces wine at his family owned wineries Rutherford Hill in Napa and Chimney Rock in Stags Leap and Sanford in Santa Barbara. He also bottles under his own family name Terlato Family Vineyards, with grapes grown in Sonoma, Santa Barbara and Napa Valley.

In his book, Taste: A Life in Wine, Mr. Terlato engagingly wrote about his fifty year career. Like the late Robert Mondavi, Mr. Terlato is one of a handful of American winemakers and executives who have promoted wine as a lifestyle; a desirable, almost necessary addition to the American diner's table.

With Valentine's Day approaching and the release of Terlato Family Vineyard's first Pinot Noir, Mr. Terlato graciously agreed to a phone interview to discuss romance, Pinot, his career, and of course, more PInot!

He first mentioned his preferences about Pinot Noir, and how he decided where to grow the grapes for this project. "I am a Francophile; I admire the California style of Pinot Noir, but prefer Burgundy. I represented some excellent Burgundy houses early in my career such as Louis Latour and Domaine Chanson. Several of my winemakers spent time in Burgundy houses, studying rootstocks and clones. We want to make the most French style possible and believe that the regions of Santa Barbara and the Russian River Valley are the most similar."

This follows a pattern that he has applied to his other Terlato Family wines; finding the best region to cultivate a specific grape whether it's Stag's Leap for his Cabernet, Rutherford Valley in Napa for his Chardonnay and Dry Creek Valley for his Syrah.

He described Pinot Noir as typically having a strawberry or raspberry aroma; using adjectives such as delicate, elegant and voluptuous; especially praising the wine of Domaine Trapet for its soft elegance. The best have a potential for aging that may not seem obvious at first because of their light color. "I still have some 1955's in my cellar that are softer now but more flavors become apparent over time."

Mr. Terlato didn't specific recommend a Pinot Noir for a Valentine's Day dinner, but did mention that it might be a more appropriate choice than some more "vigorous" wines. He didn't give specifics, but (listen up, guys!) I suspect a Cabernet or a higher alcohol Zinfandel might work better on another occasion.

After tasting his Russian River Valley Pinot, he recommended both some Old World producers (Domaine Dujac, Domaine Chanson in the Cote - d"Or) as well as the New World (Rochioli Vineyards from the Russian River Valley).

Bottlenotes Tasting at MCA

2009-08-14T08:21:00.000-05:00

My favorite tasting event this summer took place June 26 at the Museum of Contemporary Art. The event called "Around the World in 80 Sips" was sponsored by Bottlenotes, an online wine store/community whose president, Alyssa Rapp I profiled last November for this blog.

Leaving aside the wine selection for a moment, I can compliment Bottlenotes and the event organizers for providing an excellent setting and atmosphere. The MCA provided plenty of space to move around, and seating in one of the back galleries where one could relax with some of the various breads and cheeses provided.

Bottlenotes also provided a booklet with details about many of the wineries featured. Many wines were poured by the actual winemakers or other staff, and they were pleased to answer all my questions (even the dumb ones; I am sure I asked some of those too!)

I took the opportunity to expand my palate by trying wines from countries such as Greece and Thailand, which are not always easily available. My favorite wine of the evening was a Pinot Noir (lucky guess!) from the Santa Lucia Highlands called Notoriety. Normally I am partial to the Burgundian (rocks, mushrooms, earch, etc.) style of Pinot over the more opulent California ones, but this had a little mixture of both, subtle cherry and blackberry fruit, and plenty of that sandy, stony French texture.

Hopefully, Bottlenotes will return to the MCA for another worldwide tasting next year!

BOKA Blind Tasting - Can you Name That Wine?

2009-08-12T08:22:00.000-05:00

Can you name that wine?

A popular parlor game among wine nerds is "blind tasting"; the identifying of a wine simply by observing and tasting it. And by "identifying", I mean not only the grape variety, but also the country and vintage of the wine.

As a sommelier in training (assuming I survived my first WSET test on August 2), I figured I should start practicing this, and Boka Restaurant on 1729 North Halsted is helping my untrained taste buds by hosting a free "Taste Your Palate" contest the first Tuesday of each month. The most accurate taster each month receives a $100 gift certificate to Boka; all players receive $10 off a $25 or more check if used the night of the contest.

Just before the August 4 tasting, I spoke with Matt Schneider, General Manager and Wine Director of Boka, to explain the game to me, and hopefully pick up some pointers.

There are four wines featured each month, and each player needs to identify the grape each wine is made from, and whether it comes from an Old World or New World country. Old World refers to countries such as France, Germany and Italy, i.e., they have made wine for hundreds, of years. Schneider identified some Old World wine characteristics which could include a rustic,
"barnyard" aroma, and more of a mineral feel on the palate. Wine made in New World countries (such as Austrailia and the United States) generally play up the fruit and structure.

Schneider advises wine consumers to take notes, take the opportunity to try new wines, and if a wine particularly impresses you, to research it online.

Join the Chicago Crushpad Team!

2009-08-12T07:23:00.001-05:00

The grapes for our wine will come from this vineyard, called Two Pisces!

If you ever wanted to create a wine from scratch, without the expenses of land and labor, then you need to seek out Crushpad. Located in San Francisco, this is a "custom crush" facility in which makes wine for clients all over the country. You can delegate the winemaking as an individual or part of a team, and the Crushpad staff will customize your order based on your requests.

A Chicago team is currently forming, and I had the pleasure of interviewing via email, the team's coordinator, Carol Ludwick.

How did you first come aware of Crushpad?

I read about the company several years ago and was intrigued from the start, but I joined a winemaking group for the first time last year when my husbandand I made Pinot Noir with a group out in San Francisco.

Take me through the process of how the Chicago team will make our wine.

We've been assigned an awesome winemaker, Chris Nelson, who is a master with Pinot Noir. (He did ours last year as well.) He'll be leading us through the process from grape to glass. We'll start with a kick off party on September 9 at Taste Food and Wine where we'll taste barrel samples from a 2008 vintage produced from the same vineyard, Two Pisces (Sonoma), as our wine this year. He'll be sending either a video or notes for me to present and we'll learn how Pinot Noir is made, what makes it different/more finicky than other wines, etc.

As the grapes mature, we'll be sent samples from our vineyard so we can taste them, and we'll be able to attend a virtual Crush Camp where members of the team can watch the sorting process live and ask questions. Members will have access to the abundant information on the Crushnet sitewhere they'll find what's called Winemaker's Minutes, segments that explain each step of the winemaking process. We will all become familiar with terms like de-stemming, cold soak, punch downs, brix and more.

We'll be having a label design contest with the winner receiving 6 bottlesof our wine! This is a great opportunity for local artists to enjoy a bounty of premium wine while earning recognition for their work.

The group will receive on-line updates about the progress of the wine as it makes its way from vineyard to bottle.

We'll be able to watch the bottling live via Crush Cams.

All group members will receive a tee shirt with the Community Crush Chicago design. We'll celebrate next year with a big release party when our wine arrives.

What variety of grape will you work with, and have you tastedother wines made from that region/grape?

Crushpad has allocated a barrel of Pinot Noir from the Two Pisces Vineyard in Sonoma. This 10-acre biodynamically farmed vineyard sits on the southwestern edge of Petaluma. In this section of Sonoma, very chilly ocean breezes and fog are funneled through the Petaluma Gap, keeping temperatures up to 15 degrees cooler than the rest of the county. The moderate rainfall totals and cooler weather conditions are idyllic for growing high-quality Pinot Noir. This rolling hillside property features a variety of Dijon clones planted on 101-14 and SO4 rootstocks. I am a big fan of Pinot Noir and have enjoyed many from the Sonoma region.Our group will get to taste barrel samples from that same vineyard at our opening party.

What can participants learn about wine through their involvementwith a Crushpad team?

The beauty of it is, as much as they want to! I'm a wine geek, so I read every one of the Winemaker's Minutes so I could become familiar with the more technical side, but participants can dip in to the website and read blogs, connect with other wine lovers and learn as much as their interest allows.

What is the cost to participate on your team? How can one register?

There is no cost to join the group, but we ask that participants agree to purchase at least one bottle of the wine, which is $26. You can register at Crushnet via this link:

http://www.crushnet.com/groups/14405/community-crush-chicago

When you are done bottling your project, do you think you will drink your share right away, or will you cellar some of your bottles?

I've signed up for a 1/2 a case, so I will for sure be cellaring some of them to enjoy down the road.

Pours for Justice

2009-07-21T06:49:00.007-05:00

If you are a wine lover, a supporter of free and fair trade and/or a
self-described “good government” advocate, Chicago Pinot invites you
to attend Chicago’s most unique wine event of 2009.

Come join me on August 6 from 5:00 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. at the Chicago
Cultural Center, for "Pours for Justice", a benefit for the Illinois
Wine Consumer Coalition.

The event will include a variety of unique wines available for
sampling, an auction, talks by VIPs on the necessity of changing the
thinking and laws concerning consumer access to wine and information
on how concerned Illinoisans can become involved in changing the law
in Illinois to assure consumers have real access to wine in Illinois.

HB-429 was signed by then Governor Blagojevich one year ago, ending the
privilege Illinois wine consumers embraced for over a decade, allowing
them to purchase wine from out of state retailers.

A 2005 Supreme Court decision should have opened the fifty state
borders for more interstate wine shipping. Some states have
liberalized their shipping rules, but others, like Illinois, have used
this decision to make certain wine shipments more difficult or even
illegal.

Come learn more about the cause, and learn how to regain access to
your favorite specialty wines!

Tickets are $100.00 and are available at http://www.specialtywineretailers.org/donate.html or call (707) 935-4424.

For more information on the Specialty Wine Retailers Association, please visit http://www.specialtywineretailers.org/.

Poetry Night at The Book Cellar

2009-04-09T07:29:00.000-05:00

Here’s a heads-up to a cool bookstore and wine bar in Lincoln Square (4736-38 North Lncoln Avenue). The Book Cellar has cool wine and sandwiches, and an eclectic book collection. They also frequently feature local authors reading from their work.

This is short notice, but this Thursday, April 9 at 7:00 p.m. is Poetry Night, featuring Jenene Ravesloot, Barry Siegel, Laura Van Prooyen and Jacquee Thomas. I saw Jacquee at a tasting last night, after losing touch with her for several months. She has a sparkling wit and intelligence which definitely comes through in her writing and on her web site.

Unfortunately, I have to work at The Night Thing this Thursday, but I invite you to catch Jacquee and the other poets, and have a glass of wine on me!

Guest Blogger Megan Presnall on Illinois Wine

2009-03-26T06:30:00.003-05:00

Let's welcome Megan Presnall, Director, External Relations for the Illinois Grape Growers and Vintners Association! If you're like me, you probably don't think about or drink American wines other than California, Washington, Oregon, and maybe New York. But every state in the U.S. now has a legally recognized winery, so take some time to learn about and taste what our home state has to offer. Here's Megan!

The Illinois wine industry has exploded in recent years, growing from just 12 wineries in 1997 to more than 72 today. During this time, the acreage devoted to grape production has grown at a tremendous rate, and today Illinois is consistently among the top 12 wine-producing states. But while the industry’s recent growth has been phenomenal, Illinois also enjoys a rich winemaking tradition that dates back to the 1700s when French settlers in La Ville de Maillet (what is now Peoria) began bringing the winemaking expertise of their homeland to Illinois. The village now features a wine press and an underground wine vault.

Today the Illinois wine industry creates a direct economic impact of more than $253 million annually. The Illinois Grape Growers and Vintners Association predict continued growth in the coming years as more visitors discover the genuine culture of Illinois Wine Country. Locally crafted wines are growing in popularity at both the state and national level. IGGVA is tapping into this passion by pairing wines with the homegrown sights and sounds of Illinois. The focus in the upcoming season is to invite a new social viewpoint into these efforts.

Illinois Wines have won acclaim in state, national and international competitions. From friendly vintners and affordable prices to unique varietals and award-winning wines, the more than 72 wineries and 450 vineyards across Illinois offer an enjoyable, close-to-home getaway. Whether you’re looking for a romantic getaway or a let-down-your-hair road trip with the girls, a genuine Illinois Wine experience is never more than a few hours away. The experiences to visitors at individual sites and along the Illinois Wine trails offered are diverse; ranging from the quaint bed and breakfast vineyard in the rolling hills of Southern Illinois to larger wineries offering classes, tours, tastings and even on-site chefs.

Illinois winemakers use different grape varieties to produce a diversity of high-quality wines. The top six grape varietals grown in the state cover more than 75 percent of the state’s total grape acreage. Five of these grapes—Chambourcin, Seyval, Vignoles, Chardonel and Vidal Blanc—are “French Hybrids,” developed by crossing French grapes, such as the Chardonnay often grown in France and California, with native American vines. This cross-pollination results in grapes that produce excellent wine, but that are less susceptible to the effects of extreme cold—making them ideal for the Midwest’s unpredictable weather. The other grape in the top six, Norton, originates from native American vines.

The Illinois Grape Growers and Vintners Association (IGGVA) is a non-profit organization dedicated to developing the viticulture and enology interests of Illinois through information exchange and cooperation among Illinois grape producers and vintners. For more information on Illinois Wine, please visit www.illinoiswine.com. If you are on Twitter, you can also keep up-to-date by following www.twitter.com/ILLoveWine

Wine 101 at Lush Wine and Spirits

2009-02-14T12:31:00.005-06:00

Jane on the left and Kristin on your right, hosted Wine 101 at Lush Wine and Spirits in Roscoe Village (cute hat, Kristin!)

Once or twice a year, I like returning to the basics of wine. I enjoy hearing stories about its history or how its made, and how to differentiate varietals; it helps me better educate customers at The Night Thing, along with reinforcing my own wine knowledge.

Lush Wine and Spirits offers unique wine classes throughout the year; their Roscoe Village team of Jane and Kristin gave seven of us a thorough overview of six common varietals along with tips on best experience the whole tasting ritual (sniffing, swirling, sipping and spitting).

Our hostesses were friendly and casual; reminding us that the wine appreciation can seem complex and overbearing but really comes down to a few basics that anyone can master. Their mantra is keep experimenting, learn what your palate likes/dislikes, and try as best you can to put wine's flavors and textures into words you can understand.

My favorite of the white varietals was our Riesling, a 2007 Richter Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett, from Mosel, Germany. That's a long name! But the most important word in that name is Kabinett, the semi-sweet ranking in the German classification. One misconception many wine drinkers have is that all Riesling wines are sweet. Au contraire! (OK, that's French, but I don't know the similar phrase in German!) Some Rieslings are sweet, and some have the pleasant aroma of the unleaded you feed your gas tank (BTW, are all filling stations self-serve now?)

This Riesling had more of the spiky, tart "7-Up" texture I enjoy in Riesling. It really cried out for some Chinese or Thai food.

From the Chardonnay grape, we tasted an unoaked from West Cape Howe of Western Austrailia, and an oaked version (much more common) from South Africa, the 2007 Vins d"Orracne. Unoaked Chardonnays provide a different completely different approach to nurturing this grape, and you really need to treat yourself to both styles. Most wineries, will note on their bottle label if their Chardonnay has not been treated in oak (they will age the juice in stainless steel, instead).

I have a particular preference in Chardonnay; namely, the more rocks the better! I love the feeling of minerality on my palate; neither of the wines came near that taste profile, but I enjoyed exploring these different styles.

From the red wine group, I fell in love with a Merlot costing just $9.50 from the Languedoc (2006 Delas); it featured a unique combination of rasberry with strong tannins. I also enjoyed (sigh) the most expensive wine of the tasting; a Paso Robles from Tablas Creek (the 2005 Esprit de Beaucastel); strongly based on the Mourvedre, Grenache, Syrah combination found often in the Rhone region of France (it also included some Counoise - that's pronounced Coon-wa). This just felt like an electric shock of sensations in my mouth; spice, smoke and a lingering finish.

Please check out the Lush web site for their frequently updated blog and information on their future classes.

Pairing Food and Jazz with Wine

2009-02-14T09:44:00.005-06:00

One special by-product of the blog is that it's enabled me to reconnect with friends from my past. One family friend, Jeffrey Siegel, has his own blog, not about wine, but on the subject of jazz. You can read Straight No Chaser here. Jeffrey is much more of an expert on jazz than I am on wine!

He invited me to contribute to his latest blog post, with a Valentine's Day theme. If you experiment with our food/wine/music suggestions, please let both of us know how the combinations worked for you. Thanks!

Be My Valentine (and Bring the Wine!)

2009-02-14T09:41:00.000-06:00

With Valentine's Day today, I thought it would be fun to query some Chicago wine experts, the following question: "What's the most romantic bottle of wine you have ever drank?"

Kyle McHugh of Drinks Over Dearborn:

"On my first visit to Bern’s Steak House in Tampa, Florida, I shared a bottle of 2002 Van Duzer Dijon Blocks Pinot Noir with my girlfriend Kelli. If you’re a fan of great food and wine, Bern’s is like Willy Wonka’s factory – I spent an hour just reading the menu and perusing the encyclopedia-esque wine list. Over this great bottle of Pinot from my homeland (I grew up about 30 minutes north of the Willamette Valley), I asked Kelli to live with me. We are now engaged and getting married in October of ’09. I don’t know if it was me or the wine that sealed the deal, but I’ll let the Van Duzer take a lot of the credit!"

From Rachel Driver, of Lush Wine and Spirits:

2004 SAXUM 'Heart Stone Vineyard', Paso Robles, California. This wine is all out sexy. Although I gravitate toward fairly eclectic, dry, dusty and austere Italian reds by default, I didn't want to think about my wine this particular evening. I wanted something lovely, delicious, and very accessible. Hence, the Saxum. Purchased from Lush in 2007, our very first 3 bottle allocation of Saxum, I drank the 'Heart Stone' by candlelight paired with a homemade, handcrafted Valentine's Day meal. Saxum is the 'estate' project of Justin Smith, meant to showcase the terroir of the James Berry Vineyard and the Templeton Gap...rocky calcareous soils, steep hillsides, and cooling ocean breezes speak through these wines. Yields are kept extremely low, fruit is handpicked at the peak of ripeness, and a minimalist approach is utilized in the cellar. Justin produces beautiful, structured, textured 'big' wines.

Tasting Notes:
This Central Coast blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre pours a deep, plush purple. Immediately, the nose is an intense array of black pepper and black fruit, a touch of toasty vanilla oak, and just a hint of dusty dark chocolate. The palate mirrors the aromas and builds with white pepper, weathered leather, blackberry and silky dark chocolate. This wine definitely tastes of West Side Paso...deep, rich, and full of spicy tannins. Definitely a sensuous, racy number...not shy, but flashy and rather elegant all at once. Yum!

From Anne Markovich-Girard of Robert Kacher Selections:

A bottle of Mas de Guiot Rose, on the deck, with grilled salmon, with my husband on a perfect July evening.

From Brian Wiig of Flow Wine Group:

Definitely when Meg and I enjoyed Ceretto Barolo 1997 with pizza in the moonlight on the Amulfi coast. It was a "life" experience!

From Michael Bottigliero of Eno and Windy City Wine Guy:

The most romantic bottle of wine I have ever drunk? I would normally like to say it was a red, but due to the story behind it, I would have to say Principessa Gavia Gavi. A young Italian Princess named Gavia ran away with a handsome soldier, against the wishes of her father. When news of their romance spread though the countryside, the father forgave them and threw a huge wedding. He gave them the town they were hiding in and named it Gavi along with the wine which the town produced.

Gavi is made from the Cortese varietal in Piedmonte. This particular wine is light and floral, with crisp acidity, lime and baked lemon flavor. It also has a hint of sparkle and white wine spice. A great value under $15 as well.

Burgundy 101 with Martin Sinkoff

2009-02-08T21:51:00.007-06:00

The Chablis of Domaine Christian Moreau Pere & Fils were among the Chardonnays featured at Frederick Wildman & Sons recent Chicago tasting (father Christian and son Fabien are pictured here).

Last week, I received an invitation to a special wine tasting here in Chicago. On February 5, New York City based importer Frederick Wildman and Sons, conducted a private tasting of 2007 Burgundy. This was my favorite kind of tasting because it focused on just a couple of varietals (in Burgundy that means Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), and it wasn't too crowded. Often, when an importer or distributor hosts a tasting, you get an opportunity to talk with the actual winemakers. This kind of event really brings out the wine brainiacs; I overheard many conversations about climate and oak and harvest challenges.

While taking in all of the delicious wine and food, I knew I needed a basic primer about this particular region, whose wines are usually priced outside my budget. Martin Sinkoff, Director of Marketing for Frederick Wildman and Sons, emailed me answers to several questions I had about Burgundy and the 2007 vintage.

1.) For those drinkers familiar (maybe overly familiar) with American Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, what style and taste differences will they notice when they first taste Burgundy?

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as grown and made in Burgundy are to California versions as ready-to-wear clothes are to haute couture. You can wear both but they don't feel the same. The first is serviceable; the second, ethereal. Burgundy in its white and red expressions is at once refined, elegant, powerful, deep in flavor and utterly memorable. It is an experience not just a drink. As young wine lovers grow in their taste, the will come to discover Burgundy just the way young music lovers who grow up on rock music come to appreciate jazz, classical music or opera.

2.) Do you have some suggestions on how to assemble a mixed case of Burgundy that will reflect all the different nuances of the region?

I suggest

1 bottle each of:

Jean Jacques Vincent Pouilly Fuisse "Marie Antoinette" 2007

Potel-Aviron Fleurie 2006 or 2007

Chateau de Chamirey White 2006 or 2007 (Mercurey)

Olivier Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc "Les Setilles" 2007

Olivier Leflaive Puligny Montrachet 2006

Domaine Darviot-Perrin Chassagne Montrachet RED 2006

Domaine Jacques Prieur Meursault "Mazery" 2006

Nicolas Potel Savigny-les-Beaune 2006

Nicolas Potel Volnay "Vieilles Vignes" 2006

Domaine Humbert Bourgogne Rouge 2006

Domaine Damoy Gevrey Chambertin 2006

Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis "Vaillons" 2007

This mixed case will take the wine lover from south to north, from red to white, from Beaujolais to the Cotes de Nuits and on to Chablis and will allow the first experience of Burgundy in its depth and breadth.

3.) At today's tasting, two phrases I heard a great deal were "single vineyard" and "old vines". Can you explain why these terms are important and what they contribute to great Burgundy?

"Single Vineyard" is important because it means that the wine is expressing itself very specifically from one vineyard. Burgundy is all about the expression of place and time and the more specific that is, the more valuable. It is like listening to a single violin rather than the orchestra.

"Old Vines" is important because the older the vines, the greater the expression. Old vines draw their "voice" from a deep root system that can express the full minerality of its vineyard.

4.) What were some of the climate (and other) challenges to growing and harvesting in Burgundy in 2007?

2007 was a "backward" vintage: hot spring and cool summer. Finding optimum ripeness for maximum expression was the challenge in this and in all vintages. Ultimately the wines of 2007 are very precise, very fine, small boned, elegant and delicious. It is a lovely vintage in white and in red.

5.) The winemakers present also discussed which oak (and how long) they used for aging their wines. Some winemakers didn't use oak at all. What are the flavors different types of oak can impart?

Oak is used to age wines and is like adding salt or pepper to a sauce. When done well you can't taste those ingredients but you know the dish is delicious. Different wines take to oak differently. Very unruly tannic wines need oak ageing more than delicate reds or whites. Some wines cannot tolerate oak or new oak at all (such as Chablis). Excessive oak makes wines taste simple; like vanilla ice cream.

6.) When will we start receiving these wines in the Chicago market, and what are some of the stores and restaurants you have supplied in the past?

The 2007 wines will start arriving now and continue to arrive through the year. The Moreau Chablis are already here. All good stores and restaurants in Chicago-land can find these through our distributor, Signature Wine Merchants (Southern Wine and Spirits).

7.) Would you say there is any kind of "sibling rivalry" between Burgundy and the other major wine regions of France?

No. Burgundy shares with the other great wine producing regions of France a secure sense of deep identity and pride in its extraordinary qualities. If there is a rivalry it would be between Burgundy growers and growers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the new world who pretend to equal Burgundy in quality or style.

Interview with Jessica Bell of the Midwest Wine School

2009-02-03T22:18:00.012-06:00

Your teacher, Jessica Bell, and her husband, among the vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

If you're starting to read Chicago Pinot, and other wine blogs, or deciding you want to finally learn how to dissect that wine list, maybe taking a wine class should go on your to-do list. Chicago wine stores often feature one night classes that provide a basic overview. But if you are looking for a more thorough treatment, or researching a career in food and wine service, consider the Midwest Wine School and the classes taught by Jessica Bell.

Jessica began her wine school in Milwaukee, in 2006, and will visit Chicago on Sundays to teach her intermediate and advanced classes. Her curriculum is based on the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, which was created in Great Britain, and is taught in over forty countries and has been translated into thirteen languages.

Jessica is WSET certified, and has passed all the diploma exams. She has also passed challenging examinations sponsored by the American Sommelier Association and the Spanish Union of Winetasters based in Madrid. After leaving the fast-paced world of investment banking in the early 1990's, she worked at a Spanish winery, as a sommelier for The Modern, an acclaimed New York City restaurant, ("many eighteen hour days!") and has contributed wine and lifestyle features for the Milwaukee ABC station WISN.

She described to me the differences between her Intermediate and Advanced classes: "The intermediate class (nine weeks) is more grape oriented, I focus on about ten of the most common grape varietals and their main characteristics. It's designed for students who already have a strong interest in wine, OR those already working in the retail or service industries. This class concludes with a fifty question multiple choice test which is very manageable if you read and study the book and class materials."

The advanced class (sixteen weeks) requires much more self discipline: "It's recommended that you study four hours for every two spent in class. We focus more on individual regions instead of grapes. Also, we spend time focusing on current market trends, because the wine world is always changing. The final exam combines multiple choice, short answers to analytical questions (example: If your restaurant is out of a customer's first choice for a bottle, what would you recommend and why?) and a fifteen minute blind tasting."

Jessica's graduates have come from a variety of industries. "I have seen a number of career switchers; one is a former professor who is now the Online Marketing Manager for Terlato Vineyards. A nurse who took my course is now working for a distributor. Several others have opened wine stores, and I have heard from several servers who express more confidence in handling difficult customers."

The Midwest Wine School begins February 8 at the Cooking and Hospitality Institute at 361 West Chestnut. Please email Jessica at jessica@midwestwineschool.com or call 414-326-7736 for more information.

Illinois Wine Consumers Unite!

2009-01-24T13:00:00.008-06:00

If you love wine and are committed to the principle of free trade, you should join this group!

“The Illinois Wine Consumer Coalition and its members provide a voice for Illinois wine consumers. Our foundational principle is that Illinois consumers should have full access to the wines of their choice from both Illinois and out-of-state wineries and retailers. A well-regulated and efficient wine market demands full access to all wines for adult Illinois consumers. ”

That quote come from the organizers of the Illinois Wine Consumer Coalition, a grassroots project that officially opened its website this week. You should join this organization, in order to increase Illinois consumers' access to the entire wine universe.

A brief history lesson now, which you may not have received from our Illinois newspapers and television stations: Last summer, HB-429 was signed into law by Governor Blagojevich. This law allowed one positive for Illinois wine lovcrs (allowing for the shipment of wines directly by the winery, provided they pay for an access permit), but took away one important right which consumers valued for fifteen years (the ability to order from out of state retailers or over the Internet).

It's easy to take wine availability and access here in Illinois, especially in Chicago. There are plenty of local retailers, both large and small, with exciting selections (just see some of my favorites on the left side of this blog). We can even buy wines in supermarkets (try that in New York City, or my parents' home state of Connecticut). The amount of competitors help keep prices lower than in other regions.

But sooner or later, you will read about or hear about a wine that you just can't get here in Illinois. Maybe you read a review in a Wine Porn magazine that intrigues you. Or maybe Gary V. on that Wine Library video blog raved about something that is unavailable with every store you checked. If this wine isn't available in the portfolio of a local middleman (distributor), you have to order direct (kind of hard if it's a foreign wine), or go without.

The Illinois Wine Consumer Coalition seeks to make consumers aware of this issue with the ultimate goal to repeal 429 and return free consumer wine choice to Illinois consumers. Should this happen, I doubt that any local stores will go out of business (most of my wino friends spread their purchases across several stores), and won't lead to more underage drinking (how much wine do you remember drinking in your high school and college days)? Please join me in this group and keep reading my blog for updates about their progress.

P.S.: Listen for an interview from Gretchen Neuman and MaryAnne Spinner of the Illiniois Wine Consumer Coalition this Sunday, January 25, at 1:00 p.m. on WCPT-AM.

New Year's Wine Resolutions

2009-01-13T22:23:00.005-06:00

With the arrivial of 2009, it’s time to look at old habits, see what’s working in one’s life, and which aspects need fresh thinking. When the subject turns to wine, several bloggers have already weighed in with their own resolutions for 2009. Hopefully I can keep all of these fairly simple promises to myself, and if not, you readers will not feel the need to remind me!

First is to continue to try new varietals, especially ones from countries not considered the "Usual Suspects" when it comes to fine wine. If you go to the website of the Wine Century Club, you can download their application form, which lists more winemaking grapes then even many sommeliers know about.

The next resolution is to truly understand my palate, and its likes and dislikes both for wine and for different food and wine combinations. Don't feel you have to like everything a wine server or friend suggests you try (even if I am your friend!)

In order to clarify my wine tastes, I need to take more notes when I drink. This is a hard one for me. I have a wine log on CellarTracker, and most of my wine purchases are entered there, but my notes are limited. Even a few words will provide a permanent record of a particular experience (and if I can remember to write what I ate with the wine, that provides more of a context).

Fourth is to comment frequently on other blogs and wine bulletin boards. The best learning experience for wine, of course, is regular tasting with friends: laughing, flirting, telling jokes, talking politics, and oh yes, discussing the wines in question. But online forums are aplenty; most of the Wine Porn mags have one, along with CellarTracker, Robert Parker and Wine Library. And there are hundreds of blogs, much more professional than this one, where I can share my notes, and get suggestions for future bottles to try.

The last resolution can help my career, my cultural awareness, and my wine knowledge, and that is to learn a foreign language. Especially when tasting wines from outside the states, with those intimidating labels, a familiarity with the language can help me understand and appreciate what's in my glass more intimately.

Have you made any resolutions relating to wine in 2009? Please share in the comments or send me an email!

Looking Back on a Year of Tasting

2009-01-13T22:00:00.013-06:00

It’s time to look back on some favorite moments from this past year, most of them involving wine. Of course, one of my high points is starting this blog and sharing my limited (but expanding) wine knowledge with all of you!

Around the time I began Chicago Pinot, I received a wonderful opportunity to work in a wine department (which I refer to on this blog as The Night Thing), very near my South Side home. I want to personally thank Tracy Liang for giving me this chance, and I hope that every customer and potential customer I met in 2009 felt they received positive customer service from our wine team. We are planning a major expansion of our store this winter; so hopefully you’ll have a much broader wine inventory to choose from very soon!

In late October, I spent a weekend in Sonoma County with almost two hundred fellow bloggers for the first Wine Bloggers Conference organized by the online group Open Wine Consortium. In addition to meeting several of the writers who inspired me to start blogging, I learned strategies for promoting the blog, aesthetic and technical improvements I can make to it (working on that!) and how to maintain personal ethics when writing about such a glamorous subject.

Our two keynote speakers both provided inspiration, but in very different styles. Friday night, Wine Library TV ringmaster Gary Vaynerchuk gave us his usual YOU CAN DO IT! pep rally. Saturday night, along with a delicious dinner served at Sebastiani Winery (under new management now, sigh), author and blogger Alice Feiring gently reminded us not to sell out our values or convictions, and to never forget the history and majesty of wine. If Gary V. is the wine media’s Oprah, then Alice qualifies as its Dr. Laura; insisting (maybe a little stridently) on maintaining personal and professional integrity at all times.

We also took a tour of our choice of six different appellations within Sonoma valley (my choice, Russian River Valley, where Pinot Noir reigns). Oh and we drank wine. Lots of wine. All weekend. (Sorry I don’t have any pictures of that!)

I do have some pictures
of our hike, though!

When not working at The Day or The Night Thing, you probably saw me at one of the numerous tastings and classes taking place throughout Chicago. Some of the larger events I’ve attended, such as this one in Millennium Park, are starting to lose interest for me. Between the crowds, the lines, and the difficulty of truly concentrating on each individual tasting, these “wineapaloozas” are fun if you go with friends and just want to acquire a lingering buzz to start your weekend, but they don’t add too much to your wine vocabulary.

Much better were the single grape classes that Just Grapes conducted this past summer. I only attended one meeting (about Pinot Grigio), but I hope they repeat the series in 2009. This series focused on one varietal each night; and served six different examples of it. A group of no more than thirty of us swished, tasted, and discussed (and argued a little too), all in the name of getting a real clue to what flavors and textures a wine-producing grape or region can offer.

Rhone if you want to!

One of my favorite regions for vino is the Rhone Valley in France. In September, at one of those “mega-tastings” out in Rosemont, Megan Wiig, conducted a free-with-admission seminar about the Rhone, where power, juicy acidity and (potential) affordibility all combine.

I also have fond memories of the wine meetups I have attended. The greater Chicago area must have at least a dozen wine groups you can join through Meetup. Throughout the summer, Hertha Meyer's group met at Millennium Park for its series of free concerts. Everyone brought some food or wine, and many new friends were made. And one-woman dynamo Joelen Agram held monthly gatherings at her home where different varietals were studied throughout the year.

In 2009, I hope to expand my wine knowledge by attending more tastings, making new contacts in the industry and hopefully, conversing with many new readers of this blog (hopefully keeping this all within a realistic budget). I'll see you wherever a bottle is about to get poured!

Two Torrontes - Tetra and Glass

2008-12-25T13:02:00.003-06:00

On the left, the Tetra-Pak protected Yellow + Blue, on the right, something in a (deep breath), glass bottle (ooh!)

Today I look back on a week of tasting two different Torrontes, a varietal native to Argentina. The two contenders are a 2008 from Yellow + Blue, packaged in an environmentally-friendly Tetra Pak, and the 2007 Familia Zuccardi Santa Julia, made from organic grapes, and packaged in that old-school, enviromentally-evil container known as . . . glass.

The Santa Julia was purchased at Sam's, for about $9.00; this was purchased to give a comparison to the Yellow + Blue which came as a gift from K.C. Geen of GolinHarris.

Before reporting on the wines, a quick glimpse at the Torrontes grape and an overview into Tetra Pak packaging.

On the Torrontes.com website, Susan Balbo of the Dominio del Plata Winery, wrote a mouth-watering description of the grape:

“Enticing aromas that are strikingly similar to Viognier, with hints of peach pit, flowers, and orange citrus fruit. On the palate, it has a beautiful structure and acidity along with enticing fruit flavors that keep you coming back for another sip, and plenty of body for a wine that shows such delicate aromas and flavors. Fruity, floral and yet still quite dry, this wine has to be tasted to be believed. Best enjoyed in its youth either by itself, or as a wonderful partner with smoked meats, mild to medium-strong cheeses, and seafood. Great partner for spicy food and Thai as well."

You can read about Tetrapak at (where else?) Tetrapak.com. The packaging consists of a combination of plastic and aluminum coated paperboard, and is frequently used for milk and juices. It can easily preserve such liquids for several months. The wine industry has been slow to adopt Tetra Pak, but it's light weight and lower cost than glass may make it more common in the future.

So, what about the wines? The Yellow + Blue's nose reminded me of peach, tangerine and pineapple, while the Santa Julia evoked grass and pineapple, but much more faintly. On the mouthfeel, the Yellow + Blue produced a sharper acidity than the Santa Julia, and more of an orange component versus the grapefruit of the Santa Julia.

Surprisingly, the freshness and lively fruit of the Yellow + Blue didn't fade until the fourth and final day of tasting, while the Santa Julia, even on the second day, started to lose some of that energy.

It's really a personal preference which wine you would enjoy more; if you are more into the orange and tangerine flavor, and a really sharp tangy flavor, go with the Yellow + Blue; if you prefer a little more body in your white wines, go with the Santa Julia.

Hopefully, other wineries will experiment with Tetrapak packaging; I tell many customers at The Night Thing that it's not the packaging that matters, it's what's inside the packaging!

Where is the Wine? At LocalWineEvents.com

2008-12-24T14:49:00.008-06:00

I've been asked at a few recent tastings how to keep informed on all the wine events taking place in greater Chicago. The most thorough website listing events is LocalWineEvents.com, a national clearinghouse for tastings, dinners and wine classes.

Founder and developer Eric V. Orange created this site in 2000, and has listed close to 200,000 events since then.

When I look at the Chicago listings for any random month, I feel that, compared to other cities, Chicago is quite fortunate to have such an active and thirsty market for wine education and socializing.

Eric also has a place on his site for wine blogs; readers can vote their favorites higher up his list. Chicago Pinot ranks a distant #419 right now. I could sure use some votes from my fans!

It's Not a Wonderful Ad Campaign

2008-12-24T13:38:00.002-06:00

It's a fuzzy photo from my cell phone, but hopefully you can make it out. Here is a banner advertisement seen this past week on the #6 CTA bus. You may recognize the typeface as well Donna Reed and James Stewart listening in on their phone (don't you miss those old school phones?)

No, Donna and James are not promoting another airing of It's a Wonderful Life, their images are promoting a vital Illinois institution which, to my knowledge, is completely corruption-free!

I'm not an anti-gambling crusader, and am not advising readers to boycott the Illinois lottery. When the jackpot passes one hundred million, I will wait in line for a ticket or two and fantasize about all the Bordeaux and Burgundy I will fill my cellar (aka 6 x 6 x 9 feet storage locker) with should I win.

But there must be some more creative method to promote the lottery than to exploit images from a classic movie that promoted, let's see, thrift, loyalty, humility; not exactly character traits in abundance in Illinois right now!

To use a famous wine descriptor; this banner ad is icky. Lottery tickets are not a Wonderful Gift, and holiday ad campaigns for the lottery are not a Wonderful Idea.

P.S.: And I am not even a big fan of the movie!

Advice for President-Elect Obama

2008-12-20T15:39:00.005-06:00

Yes, we all know President Elect is busy with many important issues; choosing his cabinet, deciding who (or what) to bail out, trying to decide how many Illinois governors he remembers meeting. But eventually, he must address the major issues of our time, namely, the ones involving wine.

Here are some suggestions from some of my favorite bloggers and Chicago based personalities about the one question that really matters:

What can President-elect Obama do for the wine industry?

From Amy Gardner at WineTalent:

"The best thing for the wine industry that President Obama could do would be to allow the free sale and shipping of wine across state borders. I think this would allow fair trade and also provide some opportunities for underserved wine regions."

From John Terlato of Terlato Wine Group:

"The President of the United States is a high profile opinion leader whose influence is global in scope. It appears as if the Obama's genuinely enjoy fine dining and wine as a lifestyle choice. As they continue to enjoy wine and fine dining and express a visible appreciation for a diverse range of U.S. wine brands and varietals, this might serve as an acknowledgement of their interest in wine as a lifestyle choice and could also positively impact the U.S. wine and food sectors.”

From Maggie Tosch of Outside the Lines, Inc. and Wine and Hospitality Jobs.com:

"I am sure you are going to get a huge response saying 'Get rid of the three tier system!' It creates undue burden on the winery, with most of the profit going to the middle man with both the producer and end consumer paying the price."

From Alyssa Rapp at Bottlenotes:

"The United States’ wine industry is governed by the 21st Amendment that grew out of Prohibition. The 21st Amendment established a “Three-Tier system” for the distribution of alcoholic beverages in the U.S.; wine therefore must move from a winery/importer, to a wholesaler, to a retailer, before arriving at an end consumer. As the e-commerce world continues to evolve and grow, regulators at every level would greatly benefit by putting consumers’ needs first by making it as easy as possible for them to purchase wine from any location (winery, retailer, etc), and receive it in any state in which they live. There is no reason that wine should be any more difficult to purchase online than shoes."

From Amy Garman at South Loop Wine Cellar:

"I think it would be wonderful if the Obamas could somehow promote the wine industry or wine drinking, but I don't see that being the first thing on the list and it could lead to an image problem. The President Elect does, however, have great enthusiasm for both innovating and making American industry more environmentally friendly. Wine making is an agricultural business and I think that we will see great gains in efficiency and green practices in both farming and agriculture throughout the Obama administration. This will not only reduce production costs, but help save the planet - which is good for everyone!"

From Don Sritong at Just Grapes:

"I would like President Elect Obama to push for amending or repealing the 21st amendment and place federal controls on wine shipping laws. I would like him to allow consumers to buy wine from which ever state they choose. Free trade is the basis of our beautiful capitalistic society yet our liquor laws go against every grain of this. We need to progress from our Puritanical past and open up the state borders to the freedom of choice of wine!"

From Alpana Singh of What Would Alpana Drink?

"The White House serves only US wines and there is a great tradition of serving them at state dinners, etc. I know many people would be inspired to take up wine if President Elect Obama were to publicly announced his appreciation for it. He is so well respected and admired by many so his just merely saying how he likes to relax with a glass of wine would do wonders for the industry. Just look what happened when he announced they would be getting a dog!"

Around the World with Alyssa Rapp

2008-11-27T08:32:00.005-06:00

Alyssa Rapp (right) joins Chicago Pinot for a quick picture before signing more copies of her new book Bottlenotes Guide to Wine.

"Bottlenotes is a personal sommelier service; a platform to match wine to a buyer's personal taste." That's Alyssa Rapp, founder and CEO of Bottlenotes, an online company that's part online wine retail and part MySpace. There are 60,000 registered users of Bottlenotes.com, over half of which have completed their Personal Taste Profiletm. Bottlenotes founded in 2005 and Ms. Rapp, like any budding entrepreneur, has used many different strategies to raise its profile. From personal appearances, podcasts, interviews, even filling goodie bags at the Oscars with her gift certificates. Her latest move is her first book Bottlenotes Guide to Wine: Around the World in 80 Sips, which she promoted at a launch party November 5 at the W Hotel on Lake Shore Drive. For two hours, she tirelessly signed books, answered audience questions and invited us to taste six wines currently available on her website.

"The book evolved from the Bottlenotes' Winecyclopaedia, a reference guide for wine enthusiasts replete with wine tasting terms, region guides, varietal guides, and more." The Winecyclopaedia features contributions from Ms. Rapp and many from her Yale and Stanford college interns over the past few summers. It starts with a history of wine, both as a beverage drunk for survival as well as the catalyst for a global industry. She discusses how wine is made (red, white and sparkling wines each have a different "recipe") and how to develop your personal "taste profile" (there is much more about this on Ms. Rapp's web site; fortunately, the book doesn't feel like a 300 page advertisement for it.)

Like most introductory wine books, Ms. Rapp also outlines the expected flavors you can expect to find from most of the major red and white varietals preferred by American consumers. I have probably read about a dozen of these books and it's always fun to see which grapes make the "major" group and those relegated to the "other varieties" section (Malbec is an "other"?)

The second part of the book takes us from Napa to New Zealand, to sixteen major wine regions; describing their history, what grapes have produced the best wine, and predicts their future market potential. If Ms. Rapp's guidebook is updated, I would like for her to include maps in the next edition; it would make this section a little easier to follow.

Overall, a very fun event. Bottlenotes, her web site, has just been updated, making it easier to find new wines to try and possibly new friends to share them with.

Holiday Wine Buying - with Stephen Wroblewski of Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar

2008-11-26T15:29:00.001-06:00

Maybe you're not like me. You don't think about the next bottle of wine you want to try. Your eyes don't light up with anticipation when you read in the Tribune or on a blog that a new wine shop has opened in Chicagoland.

But maybe you've been drafted to pick up "a bottle", especially around the holidays. Maybe your co-workers or your little sister have this picture of you as a wine expert.

Stephen Wroblewski, Manager of Chicago restaurant Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, feels your pain. Chicago Pinot spoke with him last week to get some ideas, not necessarily about specific bottles, but about regions and grape varietals that would please different palates during the holidays.

I started by asking him for suggestions for what to bring to the most important CEO's in our lives, our parents. "At our resturant, we have received good guest feedback from South American wines particularly Malbecs. We have one from Pasucal Toso that is very popular and should be available in most stores from between eighteen and twenty-two dollars. It has the body of a Cabernet, fantastic aromatics, but not too overpowering. If you are buying for family, you might want to find something new for them to try without seeming to scary." He also preferred Tempranillo blends from Spain; "they are Renaissance wines, with a long flavor profile and very female friendly."

Then I asked him about Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners; with their almost potluck assembly of foods, what would blend in best. Mr. Wroblewski recommended light bodied Pinot Noirs ("they won't get beat up by Grandma's stuffing, but you might want to avoid California Pinots, they are a little hotter and higher in tannin"). He also thought highly of bringing sparkling wine (especially for appetizers and vegetables) and Beaujolais ("put a slight chill on it first, it can have a throwback appeal for your more experienced drinkers").

Finally, I asked him what to buy for the Wine Nerd. We probably all know one or two. What can you surprise him or her with and really make it look like you have done your homework?

Mr. Wroblewski suggested a few regions that have wine stardom in their future. He mentioned the Diamond Mountain region of Napa Valley ("these are big, robust wines you are still enjoying a minute after tasting them, they can last ten years") and Chilean wines, which he described as really "pretty" and offer just a little different taste experience for an American palate.

He also suggested that two half bottles might make a more attractive gift for the so-called wine expert in your life than one whole bottle. I am no expert, but since I am the type who wants to have a little taste of every varietal at least once, I can understand this approach!

Interview with Steven Rigisich of Pinot Days

2008-11-09T11:19:00.013-06:00

Steven Rigisich, along with his wife Lisa, are bringing back to Chicago last autumn's hit wine festival Pinot Days. Next Saturday November 15, join Chicago Pinot and other Pinot lovers at the Navy Pier to experience the world's best examples of wine made from the "Heartbreak Grape."

While waiting for that tasting, here are some thoughts about the current Pinot Noir scene from Steven himself:

"Chicago is a vibrant city with a creative food & wine market. In our opinion, the restaurant scene is the most innovative and exciting of all the major cities in America. With that comes people who are willing to explore and searching for the best, whether that is a wine to pair with food or drink alone. Pinot Noir is experiencing a surge in interest because those folks who are searching for perfection and innovation and discovering Pinot Noir."

"I don't believe 2008 is a banner year for California Pinot Noir. A dry spring, the worst frost in Northern California in 25 years which devastated many vineyards, a cool summer and early ripening all led to less flavors than in year's past. But that is pure conjecture right now because Pinot Noir, the fickle moody variety that it is, seems to transform itself through the course of maturation. So, who knows what we have right now, we will really know more in March or April. "

"With that said, 2007 was, in my opinion, the finest year California Pinot Noir has ever seen. The wines are as near-perfect as you can get. Whether you like your Pinot austere and feminine, intense and bold, lush and ripe, funky and earthy, this vintage performed at its best. It is really a unique vintage in that sense. Over the past few years, we have seen vintages that have fallen into the wheelhouse of one particular style or another. The 2004 and 2005 vintage are perfect examples of this. 2004 saw the "modern" producer excel due to a warm summer and ripe grapes where 2005 was the perfect vintage for the "traditional" producer who crafts structured and elegant Pinots. In 2007, both of these styles have excelled. "

"We have sixty producers attending Pinot Days from every appellation in California, Oregon, Michigan, Ontario, Germany, New Zealand and Australia. Some of the names folks know such as Siduri, Gray Farrell, Arcadian, Fess Parker, Calera, Roessler and Freeman will be presenting their wines as well as smaller wineries like August West, Raye's Hill, Dain Wines, Bjornstad Cellars, Talisman and Zepaltas who are making small amounts of some of the finest pinots in the market. The other fifty producers are also worthy of mention because they too are making incredible wines of character and soul. "

"We also will have some local flavor with wineries from the Michigan and Ontario area. Great Pinot is being grown and produced in more areas than people believe and folks should seek the wineries out because I think they will be surprised how good some of the wines from these areas are. It is the beauty of Pinot, it may be a bear to grow but when it is done right, no other variety can reach its
heights. "

"Pinot has always had the status as the noble grape but it had that claim in Burgundy exclusively. In California, pinot struggled mostly because people were planting it in the wrong places. Then in the late 1980’s, growers began to realize that the grape belonged in cool climates like Anderson Valley and Santa Lucia rather than Napa, it began to flourish. The Pinot legacy is due to mavericks like Joseph Swan of J. Swan Winery, Josh Jensen of Calera, Burt Williams of Williams-Selyem, Richard Sanford of Alma Rosa and Francis Mahoney of Mahoney Vineyards who paved the way by taking the risks and discovering the best sites, clones and practices necessary to grow the best grapes."

"If you build on that with these very passionate and innovative "Young Turks" like Adam Lee of Siduri, Ed Kurtzman of August West and Ryan Zepaltas of Zepaltas Wines who have emerged as the new guard, you have truly great wines and the genesis of a cult. However, that is not enough. For that, you need the passion of the producers and consumers and the personalities like Gary Pisoni, Peter Cargasacchi and Michael Browne, who bring a perspective that is electric and, to be candid, a little crazy. If you add this all together, you create a community and with the community comes a cult. "

"If you use sales as a barometer, Pinot’s share of the market is still below Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay, Zinfandel and many other varieties. French Colombard has twice as many acres planted in California as Pinot Noir! But that is more a factor of where varieties can be planted than of the popularity of the heartbreak grape. The interest in pinot continues to rise exponentially as others are becoming flatter and that is due to the unequivocal fact that Pinot Noir is the ultimate food wine and you can never tire of their diverse renditions; there are simply too many styles, too much flavor and too many unique sites where it is grown. "

"So, in terms of quantity, you don’t find as many followers as in other varieties. However, in terms of quality, Pinot stands at the top. There is no doubt there is no more passionate follower than the one who considers themselves a Pinot-geek. That fact is proven at every Pinot Noir focused festival because you will not find a more wine-educated crowd, a more passionate crowd and a better crowd to have fun. Personally, I think quality trumps quantity."

Freebie - "Riesling Rules"

2008-11-07T06:35:00.001-06:00

Check out the Pacific Rim Winemakers website for a unique forty page guide to Riesling, one of the most noble but confusing white grape varietals. This forty page guide offers a history of the grape, and describes its many rises and falls in popularity over the centuries. It's available online and you can request a free hard copy.

There's a concise but thorough guide to reading a German wine label and understanding the various classifications of their Rieslings. Other wine regions with strong reputations for making quality Rieslings are also profiled.

The booklet provides just the right combination of fun trivia, valuable information you can take with you to your favorite wine store, and a little wine nerd science if you are interested topics such as brix and must weight.

Pacific Rim makes some excellent Rieslings too, but fortunately, this guide doesn't hard sell you; it recommends Rieslings from wineries all over the world.

Pinot Days Preview - November 14-15

2008-11-07T06:13:00.001-06:00

Now, you know I have to write about this one. Pinot Days, a celebration and tasting of the world's most noble grape (in this blogger's opinion), returns to the Windy City at the Navy Pier on November 15 from 1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. Over fifty wineries will send a total of over 150 different Pinots to Chicago.

There's also a Winemakers Dinner taking place the night before at Bin 36 from 6:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m. This four course dinner will feature two different pinots with each course along with lively conversation with many of the winemakers.

Pinot Days was one of my favorite tastings from last year. One aspect that makes it special is that unlike other tastings, most of the wineries in attendance send representatives, often the winemaker him or her-self! If you're a Pinot nerd like me, this is your chance to ask all of those cryptic questions you have about this grape.

Tickets for the dinner are $130.00 and the Saturday tasting tickets are $50.00. For a ten percent discount, go the the Pinot Days website and use the code CHIPINOT.

I hope to see you at one of these events next week!

The Economy and Your Wine Budget

2008-11-03T06:07:00.001-06:00

Has the recession and the falling Dow Jones average affected your wine budget? I know it has mine. The other night at The Night Thing, I had to replace several dozen price tags on our bottles with new (higher!) prices. Some of the prices haven't changed for months. And , all categories in our store saw increases. Even our "budget" bottles and some of our hidden Spanish and Rhone gems won't be immune.

I know I will be watching my budget more carefully; probably buying much less than before, but trying new varietals and countries and maybe raising the quality of the bottles a little. And taking much smaller sips, so the bottles will last longer!

YPC Event at Lush - November 12

2008-11-03T05:55:00.001-06:00

Join Young Professionals of Chicago as it hosts a wine tasting at Lush Wine and Spirits (1257 South Halsted), a boutique, vineyard-focused wine shop. Cliff and Mitch Einhorn (the brothers who own the Twisted Spoke) are behind this well-reviewed location in Little Italy / University Village. We will enjoy an assortment of five different red and white wines, including an extraordinary mix of Cabernets, Syrahs, Merlots and Rieslings. The wine will be complemented by a variety of heavy appetizers. Samples of Katherine Anne truffles will also be available for dessert.

The date is Wednesday, November 12, time is 6:00 p.m. - 8:00 p.m.

This event presents a great opportunity to participate in a unique wine tasting experience, while networking with other young professionals. Attendance is limited, so please register at the link above by Monday, November 10th to reserve your spot. Cost is $25.00 for members and $35.00 for non-members.

Full Disclosure Time!: I have been a member of YPC for over six years; it is an excellent networking and career building organization with seven different committees for which you can volunteer. Hope to see you on November 12 and please consider joining YPC!

I'm Back (Missed You!)

2008-10-30T16:07:00.004-05:00

It's been such a busy month for me! First, The Day Thing starting ramping up for a new year of programming, then I moved (only across the parking lot, but still a move!), then I took some classes and attended some cool tastings, and finally last week, came back from a fabulous weekend in wine country. And I haven't blogged about any of it!

I really have missed doing the blog, and definitely will be spending the next few weeks catching up with all the notes I have taken. My target is two new posts per week, minimum.

If you enjoy reading the blog, please send an email to chicagopinot@gmail.com, and be sure to forward the link to your friends. Thank you!

Someone You Should Know - Mark Spivak of Sunshine Wine Concepts

2008-09-14T06:31:00.007-05:00

Today's interview is with Mark Spivak, the president of Sunshine Wine Concepts, a restaurant consulting service he founded in 1992. Based in Florida, Mark advises restaurants on wine selection, trains staff, lectures about food and wine, and currently hosts Uncorked! Radio on WXEL-FM, National Public Radio for the Palm Beaches. He has developed his wine expertise after over twenty years of restaurant experience holding many different positions; waiter, sommelier, dining room manager, managing partner.

He currently has two web sites, one for Sunshine Wine Concepts, and one for his online magazine Spivak on Wine.

Chicago Pinot: What are the general standards a restaurant should meet to provide excellent wine service?

Mark Spivak: Standards (and expectations) of wine service vary wildly, depending on the level of restaurant, the formality of the establishment, and---most importantly---the price. Most diners in America may be unaware of the details and requirements of formal wine service, but their expectations tend to escalate as they go up the price scale. I think what’s important is to have someone on the premises (waiter, manager, owner, sommelier etc) who has helped put the wine list together and has tasted most of the current vintage selections.

Chicago Pinot: What are common mistakes you have seen wine servers and sommeliers make?

Mark Spivak: Clean glassware is the biggest problem I encounter in virtually every restaurant I visit. Unless the restaurant has a separate dish machine dedicated to stemware, or unless the glasses are hand-polished at the bar, most glasses tend to have mineral deposits, smell like detergent, or be encrusted with food particles. In a situation like this, it hardly matters what type of wine you order.

The most common mistake in wine service, as in most other areas of human endeavor, is greed. On the staff level, this usually takes the form of over-pouring; many servers seem to believe that the fastest way to get the second bottle is to dump as much wine into the glasses as possible. Speaking as a former sommelier, I think the challenge is to stay focused on the needs of each customer as an individual.

Chicago Pinot: Do you see these mistakes made at different types of restaurants (i.e. small vs. large, formal vs. more casual, etc?)

Mark Spivak: As you go up the price scale, it becomes easier for the service staff to wait to hit the lottery. In restaurants with grand wine lists that are located in upscale venues (Las Vegas, New York, Paris) it’s not unusual for someone to spend $1000-2000 on a bottle of wine. It becomes easy to lose interest in everyone else.

Chicago Pinot: Wine Spectator recently polled its readers about, among other subjects, the ideal size of the wine list. What is your preferred size? Less than 100 bottles, between 100 and 500, more than 500?

Mark Spivak: The size of the list is less important than how carefully the wines are chosen. The average person who reads the Wine Spectator would probably be impressed with roll calls of the big names, verticals of Chateau Latour or Silver Oak, etc. In fact, a smaller list is much harder to put together; if you only have 50 wines on a list, every selection has to count. If you have 500, you can offer something for everyone.

Chicago Pinot: How can a server put a nervous or inexperienced guest at ease and him or her make an excellent, intelligent bottle selection?

Mark Spivak: Servers can put customers at ease about wine exactly as they do about food---by forming a rapport with the table, asking questions, getting to know their likes and dislikes. What type of wine do you like? What do you drink at home? The customer bears some responsibility here as well. If you feel comfortable with a server/sommelier, tell the person what you’re looking for and how much you want to spend. Most of the time, you’ll get the best bottle in the house at that price.

Chicago Pinot: What are the most important facts a server should remember about each bottle on a restaurant's wine list?

Mark Spivak: What does this wine taste like? What type of food does it go with?

Chicago Pinot: So much about wine is surrounded by grace and tradition. What are some nuances about wine service that distinguish the great restaurants from the good to average ones?

Mark Spivak: Wine service really isn’t rocket science. The basic principles are simple---be friendly, be informed, give the customer clean glassware, keep the wine at the right level in the glass. We talk about wine and food pairing, but wine actually is food---as much a part of a meal as a starch or a vegetable.

Someone You Should Know - Todd Hess of H2Vino

2008-09-14T05:47:00.004-05:00

Let's suppose while visiting your favorite wine shop, it has stocked
out of wine from your favorite producer. If you know the name of that
wine's importer, you can increase the chances that your next purchase
will satisfy you as much as your old standby.

Meet Todd Hess of H2Vino. His company is one of approximately sixty
five serving the Chicago market. "It provides healthy competition",
he explained over drinks at Bin 36.

He started H2Vino with his wife and another couple about two years
ago. "We knew many good wines were under or not represented in our market."

His portfolio numbers about 350 wineries, mostly from France and
Spain. Most are small producers of less than 10,000 cases per year.
You can view his current portfolio at www.h2vino.com.

H2Vino adds wines to its list slowly. "We hear about possible
additions by word of mouth and through recommendations of
importers in other countries. I was surprised when he told me there's
even friendly trading of wines with other local distributors.
Restaurants and wine stores also suggest ideas.

Todd enjoys working the Illinois market. "I would give the state an
A-minus for wine availability and pricing. It's not a state dominated
by major wholesalers. Also, there's no 'Franchise Law' in Illinois;
i.e. a winery can move more freely from one distributor to another."

If you like to take careful notes about your wines, always check the
back of your bottles for the phrase "Imported by __________." Those
names can suggest new wines for you to explore!

New Links to Click

2008-09-14T05:31:00.003-05:00

When I am between blog posts, please check out some of the new links on the right side of the blog. I have placed them into several categories, including favorite wine blogs and stores here in Chicago, along with some excellent audio and video resources. The blogs I will probably rotate in and out because I am discovering new ones all the time. If you subscribe to any of the blog feeds, please tell them that Chicago Pinot recommended it!

Air Raid!

2008-08-23T03:30:00.004-05:00

There were planes overhead just a second ago. Really!

It's time for a marathon night of blogging! Since I don't have to book a last minute flight to Springfield, Illinois this weekend, (I thought I was at least on his short list!), tonight is a good time to reminisce about some of my favorite wine events of the past few weeks.

The fiftieth annual Chicago Air and Water Show (also referred by me as the Air Raid) took place on August 15-17. I was invited to a morning party on LaSalle Avenue, with a perfect view of the pretty boats and the big, scary planes that danced all over the sky.

Similar to the fire power in the air, each guest brought some Smokin!' California wine. Almost everyone had some cute story to share about their contribution. I brought a 2002 Merlot from Mansfield Winery, purchased last year while visiting San Francisco. Unfortunately, I suspect this one needed more decanting, and I couldn't stay past 1:00 p.m. due to my shift at The Night Thing. If you attended this party and had a taste, I would love to get your feedback!

Some of the other wines we featured are in the pictures above. One I will definitely remember was the 2001 Consetino Vintage Petite Syrah. This wine had a thick, almost maple syrup quality; it would fit perfectly with pancakes or Mom's French Toast!

In case you can't decipher the labels above, one guest provided a list of what we all brought:

2004 Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs
NV Domaine Carneros Cuvee de la Pompador (Brut Rose)
2002 Mansfield Merlot Napa
2004 Mathis Grenache Sonoma
2006 Shane Syrah The Unknown Sonoma
2005 Joseph Filippi Cinq Vinobles Rancho Cucamonga
2005 Tensley Syrah Tierra Alta Vineyard Santa Barbara
2005 Duckhorn Merlot Napa
2005 Rosenblum Rock Pile Zinfandel
2005 Ridge Lytton Springs Zin blend Dry Creek Valley
1999 Foppiano Petite Sirah Sonoma
2001 Cosentino Petitie Sirah Lodi
2004 Worthy Sophia's Choice Napa Cab Merlot blend
2004 Vino Noceto Sangiovese Shenandoah Valley Amador County

Hopefully our little group can get together again, maybe around Christmas season. If you have any pictures of the planes or boats from the show, please email them to chicagopinot@gmail.com and I will add them to this post. Thanks!

E-Book Review - How to Taste Like a Wine Geek

2008-08-23T01:18:00.004-05:00

You should order 1 Wine's e-book and start reading his blog (after you finish reading mine, of course!)

Joe Roberts, writer of the wine blog 1 Wine Dude, has written a useful, fun companion to his blog; an e-book called "How to Taste Like a Wine Geek". It's a fast read (about forty-two pages printed out) with succinct information about how to taste wine, what to look for, and how to really determine which wines suit your palate best.

Joe starts the book by telling us a little about his journey from wine ignorance to wine expertise (hint, a couple of girlfriends play a role), and realizing that with a little patience and an open mind, one can begin to unravel the mysteries of this centuries-old beverage.

He reminds us to think about everything we taste, every day; this will give us the skills to better describe the wines we try. If you are beginning to make wine a more active part of your meals, focus on which wines you hate and love, leaving aside the ones in the middle for now. The wines which leave the strongest impression in both directions are the best starting points for further exploration. It's also easier to put descriptors on wines that hit you with that strong a feeling, positively or negatively.

Joe also discusses the aromas in wine; and the importance of swirling and sniffing in order to discover these hidden treasures. He walks us through a sample tasting; this process is one I need to practice more consistently.

He doesn't seem to be too concerned with assigning a number to a wine; just knowing if you love, like or hate it, along with some sense of why, will start you on a journey that will enhance your dining experiences and probably your social life too!

Using his scale, I can confidently state "I Love It!" when reviewing 1 Wine Dude's e-book. You can download it from his web site for $7.95.

Interview with Deborah Brenner - author of Women of the Vine

2008-08-07T12:29:00.008-05:00

Chicago Pinot meets three Women of the Vine, from left to right: Kristin Belair of Honig Vineyard and Winery, author Deborah Brenner and Marian Jansen op de Haar of Fleming's Steakhouse and Wine Bar

A casual lunch with winemaker Karen Cakebread changed Deborah Brenner’s life. Deborah had left a secure technology job after sixteen years in an attempt to connect more with nature and community. Karen and Deborah dished for several hours about the obstacles they faced in their respective careers. In 2005, Deborah formed a wine negotiant company, negotiating deals with some of this country’s great female winemakers. She wrote Women of the Vine: Inside the World of Women Who Make, Taste, and Enjoy Wine as a tribute to the pioneers you don’t always read about in wine magazines or on the back of your favorite bottle.

While in town for a book signing, Ms. Brenner sat down with me to discuss her book and her wine portfolio, which has just entered the Chicago market.

Chicago Pinot: Tell me about some of the pioneers you profile in the book, and why wine lovers should know more about them.

Deborah: I profiled twenty women in the book. Some of the pioneers in the industry really paved the way for women today being able to break the glass ceiling and break through the gender stereotypes. Merry Edwards was instrumental at changing policy at UC Davis and Dr. Ann Noble, creator of the Wine Aroma Wheel, was the first woman on the faculty in the enology department at UC Davis. Also, Heidi Barrett is the only person, male or female, to receive five 100 point perfect scores from Robert Parker!

Chicago Pinot: What are some of the barriers that needed to be broken down in the wine community?

Deborah: Two big stereotypes tend to be mostly about the physical demands of a wine producer. Also, there is the expectation, that once a woman becomes pregnant, she can no longer taste wine in the same manner or handle the day to day activities and strenuous work.

Chicago Pinot: Do those concerns exist in the old world as well?

Deborah: Yes, and also, another challenge is that European women often enter the wine trade through an inheritance of the winery from family which means taking on extra executive responsibilities they may not initially be prepared for.

Chicago Pinot: Is there, and should there be, such a thing as marketing “to women?”

Deborah: Wine will appeal to different people for different reasons; we shouldn't try to "genderize" the wine. It has turned off customers when we try to turn "women's wine" into a category.

Chicago Pinot: Is it true that women are better tasters than men? Does that help them out when making wine?

Deborah: It's not so much that taste better, but women generally have more taste buds then men, meaning they can detect sweet and sour flavors more than most men can.

Chicago Pinot: Please introduce me to your company, Women of the Vine Cellars.

Deborah: While writing the book, I formed Women of the Vine Cellars. It is the first wine company to unite award winning women winemakers under one brand. I like to say it is the first "Art Gallery" to showcase the wonderful talents of these artists. I currently have six women winemakers making wine for Women of the Vine Cellars. Signe Zoller,Marketta Fourmeaux, Carol Shelton, Dorothy Schuler, Heidi Barrett and Alison Crowe. They are from Napa, Sonoma and Paso Robles. My goal is to continue introducing great women of wine to the consumer. It is a celebration to women's great accomplishments. I hope Women of the Vine will encourage and empower young women to pursue their passions and dreams.

Interview with Marian Jansen op de Haar

2008-08-06T14:11:00.016-05:00

Ms. Jansen op de Haar is the Director of Wine for Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar. Fleming’s has sites in almost thirty (twenty eight) states, and opened up its first Chicago location this April. Fleming’s unique selling point is definitely its wine program; each restaurant features one hundred wines available by the glass. It’s rare to find a restaurant that emphasizes its by-the-glass program to this extent.

Ms. Jansen op de Haar graciously agreed to an interview with me, in which we discussed the challenges of assembling a great wine list, and keeping the bottles consistently fresh throughout the year:

Chicago Pinot: When and how did the idea for Fleming’s 100 come about?

Marian: It started about ten years ago when founder Paul Fleming wanted to create a more wine friendly and female friendly atmosphere for a steakhouse. We wanted to create the idea of having a different wine with each choice. We wanted guests to have many more choices than just house white and red. Also, we wanted to encourage guests to have a different glass of wine with each choice. Another part of that philosophy was to not penalize guests for ordering by the glass. So our by the ounce price is the same per ounce no matter what the pour size (we also have two ounce tastes and flights of three tastes).

Chicago Pinot: How do you ensure that wines poured at Fleming’s remain fresh?

Marian: We keep all of our bottles behind the bar (one of each selection) and they are temperature controlled (sixty degrees Fahrenheit for reds, forty five for whites). Every night we sparge (or spray) the open bottles with inert gas, which pushes out the oxygen.

Chicago Pinot: How often do you update the list, and what qualities should a wine have for potential addition to the list?

Marian: We change the national selections on our lists every year, and each year, about two-thirds of the wines are new. We are looking for wines that taste like “more money” than their price. Fleming’s balances the list across taste profiles, origin, and price point.

Chicago Pinot: I notice that each individual restaurant’s wine manager has free reign to choose thirty wines. Is there a great deal of variation from restaurant to restaurant on what wines get selected?

Marian: States with strong local wines, such as Arizona, Texas and Virginia, may have some of those wines added to their Fleming’s list. These wines can rotate several times over the course of a year, and we look at those thirty choices as a testing ground for the main national list.

Chicago Pinot: Looking back on ten years of compiling the list, what changes have you observed in the U.S. wine consumer market?

Marian: Americans are much more adventurous now and willing to try wines from different areas and different grapes, so the current list reflects that change.

Chicago Pinot: How available at retail are most of the wines in the cities in which Fleming’s has a presence?

Marian: I do get some exclusives, wineries do like to make special wines available to certain restaurants. But the majority of every list should be available in your market. And if a wine is not an exclusive, and a distributor can obtain it for our restaurant, you should be able to find it in a wine store.

It's time for Pinot Class (Hey! Those wines aren't red!)

2008-08-05T22:00:00.007-05:00

This grape (above)
produces the wines
displayed below.

Carrie (right) models tonight's wine selection.

It's time for Pinot Class!

Just Grapes has presented an educational Monday night series this summer, featuring six different varieties. I received an invitation to their fifth class on July 14, about the Pinot Grigio grape. Now, this isn't my favorite grape starting with Pinot (guess which is!), but I took this invite as a opportunity to give a variety I have previously dismissed a second chance.

Just Grapes owner Dan Sritong began offering a brief introduction of Pinot Grigio; it originated in Italy, and yes, it is a mutation of the Pinot Noir grape. Traditionally, the grape produces a light-bodied wine with citris-type acidity. Mr. Sritong recommends pairing Pinot Grigio/Gris with sushi, salmon, and Thai and Indian dishes.

Part of the reason Pinot Grigio isn't considered the most sophisticated of varietal grapes can be traced to the massive success twenty five years ago of Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio, a pleasant but mostly forgettable wine. Tasting wines like this will make you think that all Pinot Grigios are nothing but "alcoholic water", in Sritong's words.

Fortunately, Mr. Sritong provided seven solid examples of what this grape can produce. Two came from Italy, the rest came from France, California, and Oregon. Oregon, especially, is a state to watch for Pinot Grigio. The 2007 Ponzi and the 2006 Willakenzie both come from the Willamette Valley in Oregon and featured more body and crisp acidity than the other featured wines. (In Oregon, and Alsace, France, the grape is usually known as Pinot Gris, and these wines often have more tropical aromas and exotic spices than the Italian examples).

There's still one more class in this series; on August 11, at 6:00 p.m., Just Grapes will feature the Chardonnay grape. You can register on their website, or call 312-627-9463.

Napa Valley Dinner - July 21

2008-07-28T22:53:00.017-05:00

Sometimes less is more, especially for the serious wine taster. You've probably attended those “mega-tastings”, often held in an arena or open field. There might be several hundred wines on display for you to enjoy!

Yes, those events are fun and a little decadent, but for an evening that’s more memorable and educational, I would prefer just to focus on seven or eight wines, especially over an evening of great food and conversation with the winemakers themselves.

Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar invited me to meet for of Napa’s true star winemakers and each took a turn describing some of the special bottles they brought, and some of their philosophies about their craft.

The special guests on July 21 included Cathy Corison from Corison Winery, Kristin Belair, of Honig Vineyard and Winery, Tony Coltrin of Oberon Wines and John Terlato from Bannockburg, Illinois based Terlato Wine Group.

This post could turn into a list of what was tasted and assorted tasting notes. I am trying to get into the habit of taking more detailed notes, but honestly, most attendees focused on the captivating stories the winemakers made.

We began the evening with a private tasting with the four guests. Mr. Terlato shared some touching stories about growing up in Chicago, where his grandparents owned a bottler. He discussed his purchase of Rutherford Hill Winery in 1996, along with working day to day with his brother Bill.

Ms. Corison placed us right in her vineyard as she described her Kronos Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, produced from thirty five year old wines (very rare for Cabernet), yielding only 1.5 tons per acre. I understood her description of what it means to farm organically much more than anything I have read in a wine book or magazine.

Mr. Coltrin spoke about Folio Wine Partners, founded by Michael Mondavi in 2004 and his thirty year career working with the Mondavi family. He shared nothing but praise for patriarch Robert, who passed away in May.

And Ms. Belair shared the challenges of both running a winery and raising a teenage daughter. Her focused, down to earth personality definitely extends to her wines, especially her Sauvignon Blanc. She pays a great deal of attention to a wine's texture, which is something that I can really feel when I am tasting an exceptional bottle. I enjoyed talking music with her (she's a big Coldplay fan) and learning about the difficulties some women still have getting recognition in the wine industry.

Special thanks to Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar for putting together such an impressive panel and dinner. Please look for an interview with their Director of Wine, Marian Jansen op de Haar, later this week.

Gary Vay-ner-chuk coming to Chicago

2008-07-23T21:28:00.015-05:00

Come meet Grand Cru Wine Retailer and video blog pioneer Gary Vay-ner-chuk as he discusses the fall of the dollar, the pros and cons of a Obama/Clinton ticket and the New York Jets' endless search for a running game at a special book signing on July 30 at 7:00 p.m. at Threadless (3011 North Broadway).

Gary, of course, will not sign just any book (actually, he probably would), but one book he would prefer to sign is his new one called

Gary Vaynerchuk's 101 Wines: Guaranteed to Inspire, Delight, and Bring Thunder to Your World

Gary is one of several inspirations for me to start this wine blog. I have been watching his web broadcast Wine Library TV almost from Episode One over two years ago. I'm sure he will have great advice to share about enjoying wine, learning how to appreciate unusual varietals and how to change the wine world (I am certainly doing my part!)

Betrayal Comes to Hyde Park

2008-07-09T15:57:00.032-05:00

What does the wine on the left have to do with the author of the book on the right?

You can ask Velvet next Friday at Borders in Hyde Park!

Local author Velvet is a frequent customer at The Night Thing. When she saw the Cava called 1 + 1 + 3 she exclaimed, "That's the title of my book!" She immediately purchased a bottle for inspiration.

That book hasn't been released yet, but Velvet will do a book signing of her current book Betrayal on Friday July 25 at 6:30 p.m. at the Borders in Hyde Park (1539 East 53rd Street). Since Borders is near The Night Thing, I'll try to stop by after my shift!

Someone You Should Know - Gloria Petersen of Global Protocol, Inc.

2008-07-08T16:28:00.023-05:00

You might want to sit up straight before reading this post. And if you're enjoying a glass of wine right now, make sure you are holding it correctly!

Gloria Petersen, etiquette consultant and founder of Global Protocol, Inc. wants all of you to know that one of the major mistakes she sees diners frequently make is holding a glass by the bulb and not the stem. Holding a glass by the stem not only demonstrates your refinement, but it's also better for the wine, preventing it from becoming too warm from the heat of your palm.

Ms. Petersen has advised executives (and would-be executives) for companies both large and small. She has presented seminars for Caterpillar interns, Motorola diversity groups, and Microsoft account executives, to name a few. Her articles have appeared in Chicago Restaurant magazine, among other publications.

She began our interview by sharing some of the faux pas she has witnessed by some of her clients. Putting ice cubes in wine is one error she's seen frequently. Another mistake can take place during a multi-course dinner where the wines are pre-selected for each course. According to Ms. Petersen, "Don't sip a wine with a course that it's not paired with!" If you are not finished with a wine by the time the next course arrives, Ms. Petersen insists you should allow the wine to be removed with the finished course. One mistake I learned I make frequently is not really tasting the wine. There's clearly a difference between drinking and tasting! "If you just drink it, the wine is swallowed right away and you miss the benefits of the wine. The wine should briefly resonate on the tongue before swallowing, to capture its benefits."

Ms. Petersen advised me to focus on four parts of my tongue:

Sweetness: (found on the tip of the tongue)
Fruitiness: (middle of the tongue)
Acidity: (sides of the tongue and cheek area)
Tannin: (middle to back of the tongue and throat)

According to Ms. Petersen, each wine will respond most strongly to one part of your tongue and you will appreciate wine much more if you can identify that place with each wine you taste.

When you are ordering wine for a large group at dinner, Ms. Petersen advises you look for what she calls a "crossover wine"; i.e. wines that will fit most dishes and most palates, (e.g. blush wines and Pinot Noir). Her preferred combo is a Pinot Noir and a Pinot Grigio. However, other popular choices are a Syrah or Merlot and a Chardonnay. Ideally, order one bottle of red and one of white; "people like choices."

If you are undecided what to select, in a restaurant, at least inquire about the restaurant house wine; this is usually a choice that will appeal to a large cross section of palates. Another idea is to ask if the restaurant has a signature entree, and what wine might pair effectively with that.

According to Ms. Petersen, "Restaurants want you to think of them as beyond simply serving you." She offered some excellent advice on how to work effectively with your wine director/sommelier. If possible, contact the restaurant ahead of time, share your budget with their host, and take a look at their wine list (many wine lists are posted online now). Ask questions about some of the wines your are considering. If you are pre-selecting a wine for your group, familiarize yourself with the vintage so that you can give your guests some information about the wine you selected. "Guests love to be educated about wine."

After you have ordered a bottle, there's an important ritual that is common in most upscale restaurants. It's important to understand what is happening when the wine is first presented to your table, and why. Ms. Petersen explains, "The wine will be presented and you need to confirm that this is the exact wine and vintage you ordered. You should feel the cork, but not smell it; a cork from a quality bottle should feel a little moist on the bottom after it has been pulled. Ask for a taste of the wine, just to ensure it does not have a vinegar flavor." Be very discreet when doing this; don't try to show off." She's seen too many examples of diners who don't know nearly about wine and protocol as they think and send a perfectly good wine back because he or she did not particularly like it.

"Ideally, wine at the table is about building rapport and camaraderie", says Ms. Petersen, and I will remember her pointers whenever I am entertaining guests in the future.

Please check out Ms. Petersen's two web sites www.globalprotocol.com, and www.gloriapetersen.com. (Special thanks to another etiquette expert, Jacqueline Whitmore, who placed me in touch with Ms. Petersen. Please click on her website at www.etiquetteexpert.com for more great tips.)

Heard it Through the Grapevine - July, 2008

2008-07-08T16:05:00.027-05:00

Come meet author Deborah Brenner (right) at her book signing July 22.

Chicago Pinot is happy to showcase upcoming wine events you might enjoy (you may even meet your favorite new blogger at one of them!)

Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar has locations in twenty four states, and opened it's first restaurant in Chicago last April. They feature a rotating collection of one hundred wines available by the glass.

On July 21 and 22, they will be hosting two special wine events; and at least one of them will match your budget!

On Monday, July 21 at 6:00 p.m., Fleming's will host an evening of wine tasting and dining with some of Napa Valley's most prestigious winemakers. This three hour event will consist of a reception, a panel discussion with the winemakers and a dinner.

The featured winemakers will be:

Cathy Corison of Corison Winery
Kristin Belair of Honig Vineyard and Winery
Tony Coltrin of Folio Fine Wine
Scott McLeod of Rubicon Estate
Dave Guffy of The Hess Collection Winery

Hosting this event will be Marian Jansen op de Haar, National Director of Wine for Fleming's.

The cost for this event is $95.00.

Even if you're a wine newbie like myself, you probably know that women have centuries of experience working with the noble grape. But can you name any famous current female wine superstars?

Deborah Brenner certainly could; she is the author of Women of the Wine, and Ms. Brenner will sign copies of her book at Fleming's on Tuesday, July 22 at 6:00 p.m. She will bring along several excellent women winemakers who will share their favorite selections from their portfolios.

This event is free and here's a message for you men; this event is not for women only!

Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar is located at 25 East Ohio and you can R.S.V.P for these events by calling 312-329-9463.

The 10.25% Solution

2008-07-01T20:28:00.001-05:00

Are these wines (see right) worth 1% more than yesterday?

A group of us at The Day Thing have a booth at Taste of Chicago (come on Wednesday, July 2, to the Family Tent if you want to meet CP and his friends!) Since our shift ends about 3:30, I checked out a couple of my favorite Loop wine shops on my way home.

Special shoutouts to Amy; don't want to get her into trouble, but she blissfully forgot to charge me the new and improved 10.25% city sales tax on the lovely bottle of Alamos 2007 Torrontes bought at her shop even after I reminded her about the higher rate in effect today.

Unfortuantely, the Sam's Wine & Spirits computers kicked in right away with the new rate, but they were honoring a 10% off coupon that expired the day before. I guess that makes the math easy, right? $14.99 list price for this lovely Sauvignon Blanc from Marborough, $15.oo on the nose with tax (and after applying the coupon).

Note to wine store owners, if you want to just print up a bunch of 10% off coupons and leave them at the front desk of your store, I might be a little more understanding about our fair city's alleged fiscal needs!

Have you ever crossed city (or state) lines to save a few dollars on sales tax? Please comment below!

And finally, here's a picture of Todd Stroger. If you want to understand how Chicago became the highest taxed municipality, read this article.

Here's a picture of Mr. 10.25%.

I would post a picture and link to Amy, but I'm hoping it takes a few more months before she adjusts her computer!

Wine Review - Colonia Las Liebres 2006 Bonarda

2008-06-17T18:26:00.000-05:00

This is an old favorite I discovered last summer at a wine tasting in Oak Park at a restaurant that alas, has passed from the foodie scene in Chicagoland. I remembered describing it to friends as a "perfect 7:00 a.m. wine."

Now, I certainly don't recommend enjoying this wine (or any wine) that early in the morning if you're a nine-to-five type, like me. But when you get home, this is great to enjoy on a weeknight, with simple but satisfying cherry and cranberrry flavors. Higher than average acid, much lower than usual tannins.

The history of the Bonarda grape, and how it arrived in Argentina, is more than a little confusing. This article does an excellent job at sorting most of it out.

http://basicjuice.blogs.com/basicjuice/2005/06/will_the_real_b.html

There is definitely a place for wines you can just gulp and not think too much about, and this red from the Mendoza region of Argentina, can serve you well when you aren't preparing any food that's too challenging (frankly, the Parmigiano I am pairing this with is really overpowering the wine's simple but charming pleasures).

Purchased at Treasure Island (www.tifoods.com) for $8.71 (with tax).

Rating: 86 out of 100

Someone You Should Know - Molly Wismeier of Cenitare

2008-05-26T14:28:00.000-05:00

One of my purposes with this blog is to profile individuals in the Chicagoland area who help make our wine encounters more enjoyable. While on a business trip in the Chicago suburbs recently, Molly Wismeier of the Cenitare Restaurant Group met me for an interview at the Westin Chicago North Shore. Ms. Wismeier was appointed Corporate Director of Wine and Spirits for Cenitare Restaurants in December, 2007. At the Westin, her restaurant responsibilities include Osteria di Tramonto and Tramonto’s Steak & Seafood.

I wanted to learn a little about her responsibilities as a wine director and how her team of servers and sommeliers combine to enhance your dining experience. But our interview began on a bittersweet note; her publicist emailed both of us earlier in the day that legendary winemaker Robert Mondavi had passed away that morning. She had never met Mr. Mondavi, but she began our interview with a reflection on how he influenced her career, and many others:

"Going back thirty years, he helped me understand the position the U.S. has in the world of wine. He recognized the importance of place of origin; what wine will grow best in what places. He would take trips to France to see how how grapes were planted, what regions worked best for which grapes, how the soil was treated."

There have been many online tributes to Mr. Mondavi; here are a couple of my favorites.

http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Features/0,1197,3817,00.html

http://1winedude.blogspot.com/2008/05/hail-to-king-baby-mondavi-1914.html

Ms. Wismeier was originally an opera major, eventually receiving a degree in Russian studies. She believes all the experiences she has had, not just the food and wine related ones, help make her better informed about wine.

"Food and wine together were always a central part of my growing up. My grandmother brewed her own beer and I was always exposed to fresh local products, beer, bread, watercrests. As you expose yourself to these different experiences, your palate becomes stronger."

After working as Julian Schnabel's personal assistant (he directed last 2007's The Diving Bell and the Butterfly), she worked her way up through several restaurants in Denver and at the University of Iowa). It was at this point, she discovered her affinity for wines.

She stressed to me that a sommelier or wine director can't just understand wine, "You need to know about culture, history, language and the art of wine. And you have to keep studying!"

Her responsibilities now include overseeing the wine cellar of three restaurants, training all wait staff and sommeliers, purchasing of all wine and liquor and planning food/wine events.

"I want to give guests (she resisted the use of the word "customer") the best tasting at the best price. I also consider the cuisine of the restaurant, the season and of course, the taste profile and quality."

Her staff is always interested in learning from guests "what's the buzz", so please don't be shy about sharing your likes/dislikes with them. "Every bottle you open teaches you something about the next bottle", according to Ms. Wismeier. "Don't be shy, just relax and express what you really like. The sommelier is translator, who will guide you to what is on our list."

ChicagoPinot looks forward to future wine adventures at Ms. Wismeier's restaurants (they are currently working on several projects in Schaumburg and Rosemont).

What do you break out for your friends?

2008-05-14T21:02:00.000-05:00

This weekend, my company is attending a conference at the Westin in Wheeling, Illinois. It's always fun to get away from the office for a few days! A few years ago, I brought along some of my wines to share with my coworkers at our "team building" event and I would like to think that my selections helped bond our teams as much as the seminar content did.

So what will I bring this time? Admittedly, I don't have the budget for really high end vino. And, to put it nicely, I am not sure I want to share my most prized possessions with this crowd! What I will probably do is share some wines that are just a little out of the average person's comfort zone, but are still available and somewhat affordable.

Hopefully, the suburbs of Chicago have their share of BYOBs with minimal corkage. And if we find a couple of them, you may see CP and his friends sharing a few bottles of:

F. Bachelier 2005 Chablis
Shaw and Smith 2004 Sauvignon Blanc (Adelaide Hills)
Terrazas de los Andes 2006 Malbec (Mendoza)
Marquis Phillips 2004 "Roogle Red" 80% Shiraz, 20% Cabernet Sauvignion
(South Eastern Austrailia)

Have you tasted any of these in the past? Please share your notes with all your friends here on the blog!

Taste of Chicago 2.0?

2008-05-13T20:09:00.000-05:00

If you're a serious Chicago Foodie, you will want to mark two dates on your calendar. According to the Chicago Tribune, on May 20, a press conference will be held here in Chicago to announce "Chicago Gourmet", a food and wine event scheduled for Millennium Park from September 26-28.

Millennium Park held an excellent wine festival co-sponsored by Binny's last fall. It's an lovely place for a classy food or wine event; plenty of space to walk around, room to sit down or spread a blanket.

No details have been released yet about what chefs and restaurants will be represented, but I'm sure you have some favorite places that just wouldn't feel right at Taste of Chicago that would be much better showcased at an event like this.

If you were designing an event celebrating the fine cuisine of this city, what would you include? Feel free to comment below! Also, if you involved with the planning of this event and want to give your favorite new Chicago blogger a sneak taste, please comment or email me!

New Wine Books to Read

2008-05-11T13:41:00.000-05:00

What's almost as fun as reading about wine? Reading about it, of course! Here are a couple of books, some out now, some coming soon, I am looking forward to, along with a glass of great Pinot, of course!

One is by Alice Feiring; she's written a wine blog (http://www.blogger.com/www.alicefeiring.com) in which she calls herself a "wine cop" fighting for purity and authenticity in wine. She seems to have a grudge against California wine and a certain Maryland based critic.

Check out this L.A. Times editorial

Another title I am looking forward to reading is by Neil Rosenthal. If I remember correctly, he was interviewed for the documentaryMondovino a few years ago. He's an New York based retailer and importer who, like Feiring, has definite ideas about what makes wine "authentic" and not compromised.
This week also brings out 101 Wines by Gary Vaynerchuk. I have been watching his video blog since around Episode 40 or so. I saw it on the shelves this Saturday night at a local B & N, but I'll have to wait until my Amazon package gets delivered. Hopefully his over the top style (that is rooted in fundamental wine knowledge) comes through on the page as much as it does on my laptop every night!

If you read any of these, or have other wine book faves, please leave a comment down below!

Welcome to Chicago Pinot!

2008-05-10T10:14:00.000-05:00

Welcome to Chicago Pinot (and Other Favorites!)

Here's a pic of me (in full interview mode!)

and one that is much more casual!

Thank you for visiting my first blog!
I have learned so much from reading other wine blogs, and have wanted to start my own for a long time.

I'll be focusing on wine events and stores and cool restaurants here in Chicago. Our city has many great wine shops, both small and large. I'll post reviews and commentary about the wine scene and (as soon as I learn how!) link you to other online resources you may enjoy.

Maybe I will share some of my other passions over time (that's where the Other Favorites part in the title comes from).

I am in my forties, and have been curious about wine for about five or six years now. You can call me a "beer graduate"; ten years ago I was much more into craft beer. And I still follow the beer world, but am more likely to drift to the wine section of a package store if I am visiting for the first time.

I have a great day job working for the city of Chicago, but I am about to start an evening part time position in the wine trade. Don't want to get more specific now, but please wish me luck!

I don't want to give my real name (yet) so for now, just call me Chicago Pinot (or CP for short!) You can email me at ChicagoPinot@gmail.com.

Hope to hear from many of you soon!